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Complete OFFICIAL Zoom A/C Trans-Am O2-U2 Series Thread (The NEW One)

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Blitzman

Blitzman

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UGH so it just needed to be re-plugged? Hope it keeps working for you. :thumbsup: Looks like they used battery holder contacts for the switch actuators LOL.
I got side-tracked by the next videos too for a bit ha. Look out for those dangerous round chainsaw toothed blades for use on angle grinders. Accident looking for a place to happen.. Gnarly.
Stay Safe!
Blitz
 
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phantom17

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Thanks guys fun race. I had a lot of fun trading paint with Mick :openedeyewink: . I blasted Bill not once but twice this race.:cryingface:. Duane you'll be mixing it up with us soon enough. Definitely missed Trae last night. John great run as well as Andy. Bill again sorry and Tig always fun racing with you.
 
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M_Nesevitch

M_Nesevitch

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Blitzman said:
UGH so it just needed to be re-plugged? Hope it keeps working for you. :thumbsup: Looks like they used battery holder contacts for the switch actuators LOL.

Stay Safe!
Blitz
Click to expand...
I guess so? I rebooted the PC and it was still dead. So I dug into it.. Once I saw everything still intact I figured I should unplug the USB -completely- (it's got a cable from the shifter that plugs into a USB box/adapter, which plugs into the PC) I'd unplugged from the adapter and that also didn't do anything, but when I unplugged/replugged the USB cable from the PC it sparked it back to life. Problem now is, just opening it up and fidgeting around with the springs, it's not 100% anymore. Misses 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th if I don't take my time shifting.. So I'll probably need to open it back up and play with it some more. Those flat springs with the fingers are like pieces of a swiss watch.. They need to be precisely bent in order to get all the gears/buttons timed correctly.. `2`
 
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C5Volzfan

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M_Nesevitch said:
I guess so? I rebooted the PC and it was still dead. So I dug into it.. Once I saw everything still intact I figured I should unplug the USB -completely- (it's got a cable from the shifter that plugs into a USB box/adapter, which plugs into the PC) I'd unplugged from the adapter and that also didn't do anything, but when I unplugged/replugged the USB cable from the PC it sparked it back to life. Problem now is, just opening it up and fidgeting around with the springs, it's not 100% anymore. Misses 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th if I don't take my time shifting.. So I'll probably need to open it back up and play with it some more. Those flat springs with the fingers are like pieces of a swiss watch.. They need to be precisely bent in order to get all the gears/buttons timed correctly.. `2`
Click to expand...
Mad scientist at work! Tweaks the mods....tweaks the cars....now for the controllers! `33`
 
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Blitzman

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M_Nesevitch said:
Shimano 100D bait casting reel. Broke the drive gear
Click to expand...
Bummer! Too bad I could not make you another on my 3D printer, if it has small teeth it would not be strong enough, now if I could just do metal... :)
The stuff can be surprisingly strong though to a point if there is enough material and designed well..
Which gear is it?
Peace!
 
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M_Nesevitch

M_Nesevitch

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Blitzman said:
Bummer! Too bad I could not make you another on my 3D printer, if it has small teeth it would not be strong enough, now if I could just do metal... :)
The stuff can be surprisingly strong though to a point if there is enough material and designed well..
Which gear is it?
Peace!
Click to expand...
It's the larger black gear in the center of my paper plate. It's actually aluminum coated in some kind of plastic. Other series' of reels in this same family used a brass gear, but I think they were trying to save weight by going aluminum on this one. There's always been an "ounces" war between the reel manufacturers. Whoever had the smallest and lightest usually got the most business. They're usually pretty bullet proof, but I didn't service (grease/oil) this one for a couple seasons and it bit me. Soon as it locked up I should of put it down, but I made a couple more casts and forced it to crank. Hence, chewing a couple teeth off the main drive gear. DOH!
 
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Blitzman

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M_Nesevitch said:
It's the larger black gear in the center of my paper plate. It's actually aluminum coated in some kind of plastic. Other series' of reels in this same family used a brass gear, but I think they were trying to save weight by going aluminum on this one. There's always been an "ounces" war between the reel manufacturers. Whoever had the smallest and lightest usually got the most business. They're usually pretty bullet proof, but I didn't service (grease/oil) this one for a couple seasons and it bit me. Soon as it locked up I should of put it down, but I made a couple more casts and forced it to crank. Hence, chewing a couple teeth off the main drive gear. DOH!
Click to expand...
Yeah I can see how they would try to be nice and light to not impede your cast with the weight and to reduce possible fatigue on a long outing.
The little white gear looks like it would be do-able but the big one with those little teeth.
If you feel like it you could put it on a scanner and scan both sides and send me the pics...
If it is over 2mm thick would help.
I use PLA and PETG materials, I do not use the nasty toxic ABS.
I do have a few kinds that are supposed to be high-strength, high-impact.
I could try if it looks possible, a little hard to see in the pic.

HEY! just looked and found this!!!!
Shimano CRESTFIRE CR-100D Baitcasting Fishing Reel Part- Gears

Looks like metal gear?

Check it, good luck!
Blitz
 
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