Road Atlanta Set Up

[SteveMack]

Hi, Anybody got a good set up for Road Atlanta. I have the other cars set at 87 percent and can't keep up and I too tight and loose, I looked for a set up and can't find one, I have adjusted over and over and can't get the right combo, tried modifying the fast road course set ups also, cannot find any set up for this or a road course guide.
Thanks for any help.
Steve

 

[Lastlap]

Over the years, I've used just 2 base line setups. Glen & Sears.

If the track has more right turns, I use Glen as a starting point. If the track has more left turns or is twisty, I use Sears as starting point.

 

[SteveMack]

Over the years, I've used just 2 base line setups. Glen & Sears.

If the track has more right turns, I use Glen as a starting point. If the track has more left turns or is twisty, I use Sears as starting point.

I used the Infineon set and changed the diff and grille tape so far it's good like that but still 10 mph down, having trouble slowing down at the end of the high speed back stretch.
Were you referring to an actual Sears Point set up out there or just using the name Sears instead of Infineon.
Thanks
Steve

 

[SteveMack]

I used the Infineon set and changed the diff and grille tape so far it's good like that but still 10 mph down, having trouble slowing down at the end of the high speed back stretch.
Were you referring to an actual Sears Point set up out there or just using the name Sears instead of Infineon.
Thanks
Steve

What a difference adding some forward weight makes, I normally wasn't ever adjusting that on any track because years ago it seemed to hurt more than help. I'm slowing down a lot better now and gained speed on the back stretch because of better handling.

 

[Lastlap]

Were you referring to an actual Sears Point set up out there or just using the name Sears instead of Infineon.

Sry, forgot about the Infineon naming for N2k3.

I've raced Sears Point & Sonoma many years over, across NR, lol.

 

[SteveMack]

Thanks for the help.
Steve

 

[SteveMack]

Sry, forgot about the Infineon naming for N2k3.

I've raced Sears Point & Sonoma many years over, across NR, lol.

Got an email that said "any luck with the base yet" You mi ght have deleted it, but I used Infineon and changed the diff and the forward weight and I was playing with the springs. Got up to 113 lap speed, still shy on speed with the opponents set as low as 85 percent, a little more than a week ago they had the prototype and gt etc. Race there and they were averaging 133 a lap, I suppose for Nascar and I didn't look up any lap times that possibly 119 to 123 or something thing like that would be good but just getting 113 is booking along. I am very good at it, I've had the game since it came out and on my 3rd computer with it and I rebuilt the second one so it's actually the 4th one, have to go, sorry for rambling on.

 

[Steven Merzlak]

With road racing sets, a good baseline will get you going at nearly every track. You don't really need specialized ones unless you really want to get dialed in, or it requires something unique like very long gearing.

What I start with on a road course is really soft springs (anywhere between 600-900 in the front and 300-400 in the rear), then really big swaybars, around 1.5 inches in the nose and the full 1 inch in the back. That minimizes body roll and keeps the car from sloshing around like there's a fishtank in the back. All the settings should be the same from the left to right for a completely symmetrical car.

For weight distribution, I set everything at 50% so the car is evenly balanced all the way around. Changing the distribution causes uneven wear and makes certain corners a real pain, compromising your lap. You can tune out a loose / tight condition by adjusting the track bar and tire pressures after that.

Max rebound and a compression setting between 3-5 in the nose keeps it planted and extremely responsive in low speed corners.

I have a ton of road racing experience on NR, so if you have any further questions, I'd be happy to help out.

 

[Lastlap]

@Steven Merzlak would love to know more.

Rear rebound and a compression? Front camber, full inwards? Any toe out?

Never understood caster... other than on a shopping cart, lol

 

[Steven Merzlak]

@Steven Merzlak would love to know more.

Rear rebound and a compression? Front camber, full inwards? Any toe out?

Never understood caster... other than on a shopping cart, lol

Rear rebound and compression more or less controls how the car responds when you get on the throttle. I keep it low (both of em around 3-4) because it helps the handling in medium and high speed corners (keeps the spoiler in the air) while providing decent traction in low speed corners. If you're running at a real slow track like Sonoma, you can try bumping up the rebound and taking down the compression to make the thing come off the low speed corners like a bat out of hell.

I always set the camber at -2.00 degrees on the front. Any more will cook the tires and any less won't give you any grip.

Toe is dependent on the track. The faster you go, the closer you want it to be near 0. That will aid high speed stability and also prevents the tires from cooking in high speed corners.

Caster is a weird one and really depends on how you like to drive your car. I run really low force feedback (only 15% strength in the settings) because any higher strength just causes clipping and unnecessary stiffness in the wheel. If you run higher caster, the car will get looser, and you'll feel the bumps on the track better if you run low FFB. You'll want to keep it even on road courses, but on ovals you can stagger it to adjust the wheel feel to your personal preference. I usually keep it between 2-3 degrees, making it more of a loose / tight adjustment than one for going faster.

 

[Lastlap]

@Steven Merzlak Thank you Sir!